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Embracing Sustainability: The Critical Role of Zero Waste in Fashion and Textiles
Article by
Gavriil Gavriil, Senior Manager, Sustainability Services
Maria Ttakka, Consultant, Sustainability Services
World "Zero Waste Day" serves as a powerful reminder of the critical need to address waste across all sectors. This year's theme, "Towards Zero Waste in Fashion and Textiles," highlights the significant impact of the fashion industry on global waste and the environment. The fashion and textile industry has long been a major contributor to environmental degradation, and as demand for fast fashion continues to grow, it is essential to rethink production, consumption, and disposal practices to reduce waste and promote sustainability. Valued at USD 1.3 trillion and employing over 300 million people globally, the industry is a significant economic force with a substantial environmental footprint.
The high-speed fashion business model, characterized by rapid production cycles and low-cost garments, has led to a massive increase in textile waste. Every year, over 92 million tonnes of textile waste is produced globally, with a large portion ending up in landfills or being incinerated. The overconsumption and disposal of clothing result in significant resource depletion, pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions, making the industry one of the biggest environmental polluters. In fact, the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, surpassing those from international flights and maritime shipping combined. Additionally, it is the second-largest consumer of water, with textile production using around 93 billion cubic meters annually.
To mitigate the fashion industry's environmental footprint, embracing circularity at every stage of the product lifecycle is crucial. This involves designing for longevity, using sustainable materials, promoting the reuse and repair of clothing, and ensuring that garments can be easily recycled at the end of their life. By adopting these practices, we can minimize waste, reduce resource consumption, and ultimately create a more sustainable fashion industry. For example, organic cotton requires 91% less water and releases 46% fewer emissions than traditional cotton, demonstrating the potential of sustainable materials. Furthermore, companies like Patagonia have successfully implemented recycling programs for their products, showing that circular business models can be both environmentally friendly and profitable.
Innovations in sustainable textiles are also promising. Agricultural residues such as banana stems, pineapple leaves, orange peels, corn husks, fish scales, and lotus stems are increasingly being used to produce eco-textiles. Companies like Ananas Anam, which creates durable leather alternatives from pineapple leaves, and Vegea, which transforms grape leftovers into textiles, are leading the way. Other initiatives include QMILK's fabric made from non-consumable milk and Circular Systems' Agraloop BioFibre‚Ñ¢, which processes organic food waste like banana plant fibers into high-quality textiles. Researchers are further advancing this concept by developing innovative processes to extract cellulose from food scraps using bacteria, converting it into fibers with minimal environmental impact. For instance, Alt Tex uses microbes to ferment food waste into polymers that are spun into yarns for biodegradable fabrics.
These innovative approaches are complemented by policy initiatives aimed at reducing waste and promoting sustainability in the textile industry. The European Union, for instance, is implementing Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) provisions to address the environmental impact of textiles. Key EU provisions include:
Mandatory EPR Schemes: Producers placing textiles on the EU market will be required to finance the separate collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textile waste. This initiative shifts the financial burden from municipalities to producers, encouraging more sustainable product design and waste management practices.
Eco-Modulation of Fees: EPR fees will be adjusted based on the environmental performance of textile products. Producers using sustainable materials or designing products with longer lifespans may benefit from reduced fees, incentivizing eco-friendly practices within the industry.
Major Deadlines: Member States are required to establish systems for the separate collection of textile waste by January 1, 2025. This ensures that textiles are diverted from general waste streams, facilitating higher rates of reuse and recycling.
These measures are part of the EU's broader Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, which aims to make textile products more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable by 2030. While the EU sets these overarching directives, individual Member States are responsible for transposing them into national law, which may lead to variations in implementation timelines and specific requirements.
As a member state, Cyprus should follow suit by establishing EPR for the textile industry. This step would create sustainable financing and an organized mechanism to direct textiles at the end of their life up in the waste management hierarchy, providing circular solutions for this significant waste stream. By adopting these measures, Cyprus can contribute to a more sustainable future for the fashion industry and align with global efforts to reduce waste.
Addressing waste in the fashion and textile industry is a complex challenge that requires a multifaceted approach. By embracing circular economy models, adopting sustainable materials, and supporting innovative technologies, we can significantly reduce the industry's environmental footprint. Policy initiatives like the EU's EPR provisions play a crucial role in promoting sustainability and encouraging responsible practices throughout the supply chain. As consumers, we can support sustainable fashion by choosing brands that prioritize environmental responsibility and advocating for policy changes that promote circularity. Together, we can create a more environmentally conscious and sustainable fashion sector that aligns with the principles of zero waste. By taking collective action, we can ensure a future where fashion is not only stylish but also sustainable.